Drought Status: No drought restrictions are currently in place.  Please use water wisely to protect our water supply.  Please visit the water conservation home page for more information. 

A Healthy Lawn Is a Water Wise Lawn

No plant takes a beating like turf grass.  Running kids, rolling dogs, barbeque traffic and the occasional parked car - a healthy lawn can survive.  Just try doing that with a bed of geraniums.  But nothing else quite takes up the resources of a lawn either. (If turf grass were an agricultural crop, it would have more dedicated acreage than any other crop in the United States. *source)  The Environmental Protection Agency cites landscape watering as one of our biggest water uses.  In some parts of the country, watering all that grass can exceed 60% of a family's water bill.  Right here in Charlottesville, our average summer water usage is 20% higher than in winter.  In an extreme summer like 2010, it means irrigation causes us to go through an extra couple of million gallons of water - per day!

It doesn't have to be that way.  A healthy lawn is a water wise lawn.  The goal of this page is to share information on how to make your lawn attractive, useful and oh so water efficient.

WHAT, ME THIRSTY?

Seasonality - Warm and Cold Season Grasses Are Different Different species of turf grass have different characteristics.  Knowing the seasonality of the species that make up your lawn can teach you a lot about it. Warm-Season Grasses Cool-Season Grasses Summer growing season Spring and Fall growing season Best time to plant is summer Best time to plant is fall Winter dormancy, which overall lasts longer than grass with summer dormancy (turning brown is normal) Dormant in summer (turning brown is normal) but may stay green in winter Prefer temps between 80-95 degrees F Prefer temps between 60-75 degrees F Better able to withstand hot summers; can be killed off in harsh winter Better able to withstand cold winters; can be killed off in harsh summer   Turf Grasses with Generally Good Drought Tolerance Species   Seasonality Suitability Little Bluestem    warm    Native to most of U.S. Bermuda grass warm Non-native adapted to southern and mid-Atlantic U.S. Pennsylvania sedge warm Eastern and central U.S. Zoysia grass warm Non-native adapted to southern U.S. Tall fescues  cool Mid-Atlantic region Fine fescues cool Mid-Atlantic region *Substantial information for these tables used from: Vickers, Amy. Handbook of Water Use and Conservation. Amherst, MA. Waterplow Press (2001): 173.

Definitions

sqft = square feet

Readily Available Nitrogen = Water Soluble Nitrogen

Slow Release Nitrogen = Water Insoluble Nitrogen 

High Water Efficiency (when used on this page) = when in a healthy lawn, this species is generally able to do well without supplemental irrigation

Common Grasses in the Charlottesville Region 

Tall Fescue Cool season Able to have excellent color and quality fall through spring Deep root system Start with seed or sod Average shade tolerance Best adapted cool-season variety for Virginia Needs a sharp mower blade for healthiest maintenance A 90/10 combination of Tall Fescue / Kentucky Bluegrass tends to both look good and resist disease (this is the most common composition of sod) Spread seed at 6-8 lbs / 1,000 sqft (a 90/10 combination would be 3-4 lbs / 1,000 sqft) Water Soluble Nitrogen: 1lb / 1,000 sqft in September and again in October or Slow Release Nitrogen: 1.5 lbs / 1,000 sqft in August and October Standard mowing height: 2-3"

Fine-Leaf Fescues Cool Season Excellent shade tolerance Minimal maintenance Not available as sod, only limited seed availability Mixed with Kentucky Bluegrass and Perennial Ryegrass for sun/shade lawns Spread seed at 3-5 lbs / sqft Standard mowing height: 1.5-2.5"

Kentucky Bluegrass Cool season Considered high maintenance Good lateral growth (spreads readily) Poor shade tolerance Mixed with perennial ryegrass and fine fescues for a sun /shade lawn Spread seed at  1-2 lbs / 1,000 sqft Water Soluble Nitrogen: 1lb / 1,000 sqft in September, October and early November, with an additional .5 lbs / 1,000 sqft in May; Slow Release Nitrogen:  1.5 lbs / 1,000 sqft in August and October Standard mowing height: 1.5-2.5"

Perennial Ryegrass  Cool season Considered high maintenance Average shade tolerance Mixed with Kentucky bluegrass and fine fescues for a sun /shade lawn Water Soluble Nitrogen: 1 lb / 1,000 sqft in September and October or Slow Release Nitrogen: 1.5 lbs / 1,000 sqft in August and October Standard mowing height: 1-2"

 

Zoysia Grass Warm season Slow to start and to spread Expensive whether seeding or using plugs or sprigs Resistant to weeds and pests Long dormancy period (4 months in colder weather) means long time with no color but also a long time with no mowing Average shade tolerance Provides thick lawn Very good water efficiency Spread seed at 2-3 lbs/sqft Water Soluble Nitrogen: 1lb / 1,000 sqft in May or Slow Release Nitrogen: 1.5 lbs / 1,000 sqft in April Standard mowing height: 1-2"

 

Bermuda Grass (Wire Grass) Warm Season Long dormancy period (4 months in colder weather) means long time with no color but also a long time with no mowing Frequent mowing required in summer Poor shade tolerance May not withstand harsh winters though cold tolerant varieties can help Aggressive lateral growth (good for turf grass but could make it a problem weed) Withstands pests very well Good water efficiency Spread seed at .5-1 lbs / sqft Readily Available Nitrogen: 1lb / 1,000 sqft in May and again in July or August.  Or, Slow Release Nitrogen: 1.5-2 lbs / 1,000 sqft in April and again in June Standard mowing height: 1-2"

I have no idea what species of grass is in my yard.  How do I find out? First things first - does your grass turn brown in the summer or the winter?  The answer to that will determine its seasonality.  To get a handle on the details, contact the Extension Office here in Charlottesville.  They can help you with identifying the species present.

Which Grass Should I Choose?

Virginia is a transition zone for grass - too warm to be ideal for cool season varieties and too cold for warm seasons.  This means there are pros and cons to each type and you should choose based on what is most important to you.  The cool season grasses are hardy through winter, and make a beautiful and showy lawn in spring and fall.  They're the types that get that distinctive "striping" pattern after mowing.  However, they will go brown and dormant in a typical summer and are more susceptible to dying in extremely hot and dry weather.

Warm season grasses are just the opposite, and are unlikely to be significantly damaged by extreme summers (even if a summer like 2010 may cause some browning).  Their biggest drawback is that they will be completely without color for four months of the year (first frost until mid spring).  They can be killed off in harsh winters, though winter hardy varieties are available.

If water efficiency is a primary concern, and hopefully it is, tall fescues, Bermuda and zoysia have the best water efficiency and ability to get the deepest root system.  The experts at the Extension Office are very supportive of cold hardy varieties of zoysia grass.  Its excellent water efficiency, resistance to disease and pests and lower nutrient requirements make it very low maintenance here.  It is not native to the Mid-Atlantic region, but it did evolve in Asian countries that are transition zones for grass, just as Virginia is.

What is the best way to get my healthy lawn growing?

If you're starting from scratch: no problem!  The key is 4-6" of quality topsoil (sorry, Virginia clay is not quality topsoil).  This is the essential building block of a healthy and water wise lawn.  It cannot be emphasized enough. If you simply toss some seed on clay, your yard will perpetually be vulnerable to pests, disease and drought, no matter the species of grass you choose. 

What's So Great About Topsoil? Able to absorb and store much more water than clay Creates better drainage Processes nutrients so they are usable for plants How Do I Know If It's Quality Topsoil? relatively dark in color contains plant nutrients, organic matter and active microorganisms pH between 5.5 and 7.5 Read detailed instructions on creating and nourishing good topsoil here.

If you have an existing lawn that was planted over clay, it will take longer to get healthy, but it's certainly possible. Consider your lawn a long term project that will become healthier every season.  Take a look under Soil Health to learn how compost and aeration will build up your base of healthy soil.

The following steps are important whether you're starting a lawn from scratch, repairing bare spots or filling thin growth in your existing lawn:

1. Test your soil for pH, as well as potassium and phosphorous.  A pH value of 6.2 is ideal for lawns.  The tests are not expensive and you can contact the local Extension Office for more information on getting one done. 
2. If you decide to use a starter fertilizer, understand that excess fertilizer does not benefit your lawn - it does not lead to more or better grass.  If you do use fertilizer, it is best to till 2/3 of the total amount into the top 4-6" of soil, then lightly rake the remaining onto the soil surface before spreading seed.
3. If your soil test determines that lime is required, incorporate it into the topsoil before seeding, tilling to a depth of 4-6".
4. Pick a quality seed.  A good place to start is the recommended seed list put out by the Extension Office. 
5. Disturb the soil before putting down seed (rake or till).  This creates better contact between the two.  Fill any low spots with additional soil.
6. Do not bury the seed.
7. Spread at the rate specified for the given species (or follow package directions if using a combination of species).
8. Spread the seed uniformly and in multiple directions to avoid bare spots.
9.  Improve moisture retention by mulching with WEED FREE straw at 1 bale / 1,000 sqft or cover with compost or commercially available seed germination fabric.
10. When it comes to supplemental irrigation (e.g. your hose or sprinkler), do not start using it if there is a chance we may go into drought restrictions.  Starting irrigation and then stopping will be detrimental to the seed.  Leave the seed mulched until nature comes around and can provide the necessary moisture (and of course, if we are already in drought restriction, watering the lawn is prohibited).
11. Every year, during the optimal growth times for your type of lawn, add seed to bare spots and areas of sparse growth.  Exposed soil does not hold water well and is susceptible to weed invasion. 

A Nod to Sod Advantages of sod: immediate coverage and erosion control thick turf means minimal weed pressure aesthetic appeal of dense turf   The same preparation tips used for seeding apply to sod. Late fall is the ideal time to install cool season varieties of sod, but warm season sod can also do very well.  That time of year is often very moist in our area, so there is less need for supplemental irrigation and less stress from heat.  Warm season sod will go dormant, and it may be hard to tell if it needs more water.  Simply insert a knife into the sod and verify the soil base is still moist.  New sod only needs to be kept moist until rooted.

What about fertilizing my lawn?

You may also want to read this Lawn Care for Homeowners brochure by the DCR.

Protect the Bay and Fertilize Responsibly Nutrient enrichment is a serious impediment to healthy waterways and is a cause of dead zones in the Chesapeake Bay.  A significant source of this type of pollution is homeowners.  The hundreds of thousands of residents that enthusiastically, but carelessly, apply fertilizer to their lawns every year in the Bay's watershed do impact it.  Don't be part of the problem!    If you're going to use fertilizer: Use only the minimum recommended amount for the grass species in your lawn Apply only at the times of the year that it will actually benefit your lawn Do not apply all the way to the edge of your lawn.  This is especially true if your yard is bounded by a street / sidewalk or waterway.  One good rain will wash that fertilizer right into our local streams.

Lawn Care Maintenance Schedules from the Extension Office: Cool Season Grasses Warm Season Grasses

  Changing fertilizer needs over time

Lawns made with a combination of different species can be expected to require different maintenance as time passes.  An example is the popular 90/10 mix of tall fescue and Kentucky bluegrass, also a common composition of a sodded lawn.  The bluegrass is better at spreading and will eventually dominate the lawn.  Bluegrass has a higher fertilizer requirement than tall fescue and is not as drought tolerant.  Something to consider when planning and maintaining your lawn.

 Best Practices for Lawn Maintenance

Mowing

• A sharp mower blade is essential.  Sharpen your blade more than once per season (if you have cool-season grasses, then the summer dormancy period is a great time to get in an additional sharpening).
•  Follow recommended mowing heights; for cool season varieties, keep heights at the high end of the range during spring and summer and cut lower in the fall.  For warm season grasses, do the reverse, keeping it at the low end of the range in spring and summer, and raise it in the fall. 
• Never remove more than 1/3 of the length of the grass at any one mowing. 
• If you mow regularly, allowing the clippings to stay on the lawn will benefit your lawn and will not create thatch.  In fact, clippings can provide 30% of your lawn's nutritional requirements. 
• Following these effective mowing practices will increase the density of your turf and reduce the chance of turf diseases!

Irrigation

• If you choose to irrigate, think deep and infrequent waterings.
• Early morning is the best time for irrigation.  Irrigating in the evening is fine for water conservation, but makes the grass vulnerable to disease because the blades stay wet for so much longer.
• Your goal is to soak the roots of your grass to a depth of 4-6" underground. 
• Water running off the surface is not helping your lawn (or our water supply).  If runoff occurs before you've achieved the 4-6" soil moisture depth, turn it off, wait 20 minutes, and restart.  If you allow your irrigation to create runoff, you are wasting our community's supply.  
• Visit our Water Wise Irrigation Page for more information on your irrigation system.

 

 Soil Health

• At least once a year, apply compost on your lawn to a depth of 1/4"; follow up with aeration
• You can rent an aerator from local equipment rental companies.  Check the phone book or Google "charlottesville aerator rental". 
• Join in with some neighbors and rent it together to aerate multiple lawns in one weekend.
• The best time to aerate depends on the type of grass you have.  For cool season, aim for early fall.  Late spring or early summer is the most effective time for warm season species.  If you're trying to build up the soil base of an existing lawn, do this step twice per year.
• Every 3-4 years, retest your soil for the pH level, potassium and phosphorous.  Follow up on the lab results by using the recommended soil and lawn amendments.

What's the benefit of adding compost? Compost adds organic matter to the soil, which reduces compaction and increases the ability to retain water and nutrients.  This makes your lawn better able to withstand drought and resist disease.  Compost is also "fertilizer lite".  Adding it to your soil reduces the need for synthetic fertilizer. Compost can also be used as a mulch. Click here to for a primer by the Extension Office on what compost is - and isn't.

Weeds, Bugs and Disease

When it comes to controlling insects, weed growth and diseases, it is important to remember that if you regularly maintain your lawn with all of the tips listed above, you likely have very few of these pests to deal with.  A healthy lawn withstands disease, quality soil contains good microbes that help repel bad bugs, and thick turf makes it difficult for weeds to take root.

• The issue of weeds is primarily an aesthetic one.  Perennial type weeds can be quite water efficient.  Keep this in mind if considering the application of chemicals to your yard. 
• Crabgrass is killed with the first frost.  Consider simply waiting for nature to kill it and then performing your fall seeding (paying particular attention to seed where the crabgrass was).
• Killing weeds without putting down new seed just creates space for other weeds to move in.  Save your herbicide applications for the time of year when your lawn should also be reseeded.
• A specialty herbicide called "Drive" (quinclorac) is available for homeowners and can be used prior to seeding cool season grasses in the fall. 
• Organic weed control option: Corn Gluten Meal (not corn meal).  Can work as a preherbicide on a variety of weeds, but effects last only a few weeks.

• Grass that is cut shorter than the recommended height is more vulnerable to disease.
• Turf in closed off areas with little airflow is more susceptible to disease.  Consider strategically pruning larger plants that are blocking air movement or creating a different type of landscape in this area.
• Grass blades left in standing water for longer than 48 - 96 hours are more susceptible to disease. 
• Warm temperatures and excess moisture breed disease, especially Rhizoctonia blight (brown patch).  During such periods, it is better to turn off any supplemental irrigation and keep your lawn on the dry side between rainfall events.

• Don't apply pesticide unless you know the problem is caused by an insect.  Drought, disease and poor soil fertility can create problems that may seem like bugs.  (Just because you see a bug, does not mean it's causing the problem.  Many bugs are helpful, essential, to soil and lawn health.  Catch the bug in question and take it to the Extension Office for identification.)
• Learn about reduced risk pesticides from the Environmental Protection Agency, and review the Pest Management Guide on this webpage from the Extension Office.

Remember,

A HEALTHY LAWN IS A WATER WISE LAWN

You may also be interested in the following City pages:

Water Wise Plants | Water Wise Irrigation | Water Wise Landscaping

*Vickers, Amy. Handbook of Water Use and Conservation.  Amherst, MA: Waterplow Press, 2001.  Page 145.